Greetings once again dear reader from this most diverse and addictive of Islands! And so it appears that I have learnt to ways and routines of Sea Life Surveys. I would not for one second claim to know everything (if only!) as this job entails a constant and considerable learning curve. However it can be said that I now know what I’m doing more so than I did at the beginning! And armed with this knowledge we set off one day on a 7 hour whale watch with Popz skippering and Ewan as my co-guide. The introductions were made, the educational talks given and various species of wildlife spotted. And so it was that we arrived at the somewhat magical place known as the Cairns of Coll. As usual we were going to take our best beloved passengers over to the white sands in the rib and then bring them back some time later. The slight problem with this was that neither Ewan nor I had operated the rib to the level that was needed for this procedure. So we decided to do what many of us do when we find ourselves in such situations...we would blag it! Ewan enthusiastically jumped in and started her up, the passengers loaded and we set off over the shallow turquoise gloriousness that is the waters around the Cairns. Ewan, learning to drive as he went, gave me the signal to cut the engine and then we landed on the sand once I pulled up the outboard with my considerable Yorkshire strength! All was going well. We repeated the process and the first problem arose. We couldn’t get Sula back. For those of you who don’t know, Sula is Popz’ dog who enjoys a bit of exploration at the Cairns and often partakes in a little playtime with the resident Atlantic Grey Seal population.
Many shouts later she would still not leave her seaweed covered precipice and we decided to leave her until it was time to bring passengers back to the boat. That time eventually arrived and Sam called all the passengers back, rather hastily as we were already running slightly late. Once everyone was back in Ewan, Sam and I attempted to push the boat out with Ewan’s manly strength and my skills with an oar! This failed. We had beached the boat. We unloaded all the passengers, pushed the boat out into the shallows and asked everyone to get back in. Embarrassing enough? Apparently not as, once everyone was aboard we still couldn’t get the boat out! The procedure was repeated. We finally pushed off from the shore and the engine was started to many whoops and cheers. Thankfully Sula had decided she’d had enough of the seals and leapt on the boat as we left. Once all were safely back aboard Sula Beag Ewan and I reflected on the things we had learnt from that particular experience. Needless to say we had learnt a lot! Nevertheless the passengers enjoyed themselves and a great day was had by all.
And now, dear reader, we have arrived at the most extraordinary of days. Mustelid Magic day! Now as some of you may know I had spent 6 weeks on Mull fruitlessly searching for Otters. Spirits were low but determined as my day off approached, the weather cleared and I marched out onto the shorelines praying for just a glimpse of the elusive creatures. I was not to be disappointed!
I decided to spend the morning at Loch Na Keal where I had scouted out a perfect place for the wee beasties and where, the previous evening I had drawn a blank. Sam, Kathy and Ewan who were there with me were rather alarmed at my darkened mood that night! I sat quietly on the rocks, camera equipment at the ready, binoculars around my neck and my faithful puffin poo hat atop my head. I watched and waited. Finally I caught sight of a brown flash of movement to my right and sauntering down the rocks straight towards me and completely oblivious to my presence was an Otter! I don’t think that much adrenalin had ever graced my system before; I was elated! The camera was hastily grabbed and I sat poised, breathless with anticipation as my new little friend came over the rock and gave me a good look and sniff. He quickly raced on before I managed to locate him and get a shot but I did note that this was a particularly small and dark looking Otter. I thought to myself that it was perhaps just a cub that had been in the water and prayed that he would show himself again.
Thankfully my prayers were answered as I crept through a labyrinth of grasses and ditches half filled with water. I spotted him again, finishing off a recently caught fish on a rock. Just as I got the camera into position he dove back into the water once again, leaving the tail of the fish on the rock as tantalising evidence that I wasn’t imagining all this! Once again I backed off to give him the chance to come closer without realising I was there. The plan worked! He popped his little head over the ridge of a ditch and I snapped my first shot. At the sound of my shutter he looked the other way and I snapped another. Two perfect profile pictures! He slunk off again and I reviewed them, giddy with excitement that I’d finally seen one. As I looked at the shots I was struck by the large ears, blunt nose and a slight blotching of white on his dark throat. Then it struck me, this was no Otter! Do please forgive me dear reader but a few profanities were uttered as I reassessed the situation. I had a mustelid but what was he? The cogs in my biology brain sped into action and I arrived at the answer. Here I had...a mink! So not only was this not an Otter it was not even a native species!
Cursing the entire family of mustelids I sat still, seething at my luck to see if he would return. After all, he was kind of cute. As a biologist though I am not allowed to like these animals as they compete for resources with the very animals I was looking for and therefore have a detrimental effect on them. However this mink of mine came through one of the ditches and gave me a sniff. They have terrible eyesight so I was in no danger of being seen, even at this distance but their sense of smell if fantastic. Luckily I was sat just downwind of him. I got a few more shots including a close up of his face before he scampered off for more of his mink adventures.
And so it was decided to leave this place. After a quick phone call to Natalie to bewail my situation I headed down the spine of the Island. I stopped off at Fishnish where there was Otter habitat aplenty and stayed for a couple of hours. There was nothing. My mood once again blacker than a typical Mull sky I drove further south, parked, settled myself on a ridge of rock and waited. Eventually I saw a brown shape in the water briefly. I focussed the binoculars on it just as it dived but up he came again and finally, after six weeks, hours of blank searches and one mistaken mink later I had, at last, laid eyes on my Otter! Gone was that surge of adrenaline, gone was that sense of urgency to get a perfect photo, all I felt was relief. Relief that at last my searching was over and here he was, a beautiful dog Otter for me to enjoy.
He swam just offshore for a long time, catching lump suckers and crustaceans and deftly eating them whilst floating in the water. Gradually he started to swim a little closer and our game began. He would dive and I would run, he would surface and I would freeze. It all had to be timed well and the aim was to get to where he was headed before he got there. He finally came ashore to settle and I was still a long way off but I happily sat and watched him wash and roll in the seaweed through the binoculars. After this he decided to have a little nap. Here was my chance! With the speed of a tortoise that has mobility issues I crept closer, my muscles screaming in protest as each leg was precariously balanced on for an obscenely long amount of time! If ever he looked up I froze, terrified that all this work would be for nothing. Helpfully (!) my camera and binoculars were swinging wildly from my neck and I knew any noise would scare my little friend off so I had to hold those in one hand whilst steadying myself on the rocks with the other. It was tremendously difficult! However I stopped a little way off and snapped away. He happily snoozed in front of me, occasionally looking up to see what the noise of my shutter was but thankfully he remained unperturbed. After a few shots I decided to just sit there and watch him sleep. Here I was looking at this beautiful Otter and suddenly the whole effort was forgotten and every hour of wasted time was worth ever second I got to spend with him. It was a truly glorious moment!
After a while he woke up and decided to go fishing again. I watched him swim out and, thinking that was it, crept off the rocks and up onto the grass bank. However he turned around and came back again, this time with a crustacean of some sort clamped in his proud jaws. He clambered back onto the rocks, just in the golden light of the setting sun and I couldn’t believe the perfect conditions for a few more snaps. As he began to devour his meal I began to crawl again, feeling like Gollum from Lord of the Rings! I managed to get close, very close. I could hear him nosily chewing and crunching away behind a rock but all I could see was the top of his head. Once he’d finished though he came around and started heading straight towards me. I couldn’t decide whether to watch or snap and I was sure the noise would disturb him. I took a couple of tentative shots which stopped him and then I put the camera down. He wondered around the rocks for a little longer before heading off once more out into the water.
By this point I was very conscious that the tide was coming in and, not wanted to get stranded headed back to the grass ridge. He swam around his own ripples in the water until deciding to come back one last time. This time I decided to watch from where I was. Being eaten alive by the relentless Scottish Midgie I watched him rub along the seaweed and have one more short nap before leaving for good. I had spent about an hour with him and I was ecstatic with the photos I’d gotten. It was truly magic; there really are no other words for it! Grinning from ear to ear I happily trotted back to the car and sang all the way back to Salen.
The next morning came and everyone in the office received hugs and joyous proclamations as to the wonderfulness of the Otter! I hope to see my little friend again sometime soon but for now I hope he is doing well where he is and I thank him for that most fantastic of experiences.
Sarah
Guide
Wednesday 22 September 2010
Part 7
We have arrived at a very special part of this adventure dear reader as I am about to tell you of a very special day. We had one of the best sightings of any trip on this occasion and it would have been wonderful, had I not been in the office on such a particular day! However, walking through the car park in the Mull Mizzle that morning I did not feel disappointed in the decision which had landed me in the office. And so the trip set off, a boat full of passengers burning with anticipation, the guides curious as to what we might see and our skipper, as ever, letting that spectacular knowledge and sense of his deciding where it was they were to go.
A few hours later Natalie received a call from Popz letting us know what they’d seen so we could update our sightings board. What Popz told Natalie was that they were with his favourite animal. What is his favourite animal I hear you ask? It turns out it is the Risso’s Dolphin, a much rarer visitor to these waters than the Common or Bottlenose. Much excitement ensued! Any visitor into the office received an excited babble of information from me and the grin could not be wiped from my face. I do believe a little dancing was undertaken too! It must be understood dear reader that these particular cetaceans had not been seen by Sea Life Surveys in 2 seasons and, particularly for me, their oddities made them ever more endearing! They have a rather bulbous head, have scratches along their flanks and back and get very pale as they age so, as you can imagine, they’re quite unusual creatures, and although I hadn’t seen them personally, it was fantastic to know they were out there and that our best beloved passengers has gotten the chance to see them.
A few more hours later and the trip returned. Everyone onboard completely soaked through but happy at their sightings. The guides came into the office, hugging, giving high fives and sharing their experience with us. In that moment I have to say that I felt very honoured to be a member of the team and excited about what else we might see out there. It was a very happy day for us all, despite, as Ewan called it, the seven hour shower!
Now it came to pass, purely by coincidence that during this happy moment a man came in to ask information, to which I happily explained what he needed to know and then hastened to add the reason behind the grin, the dancing and the general excitement in my tone. Apparently this all made an impression on him as, next day he came in again asking for me. More specifically he asked for the enthusiastic one that looks like an Eskimo! Now personally I don’t see it, I really don’t, maybe it’s how pale I am but either way the remark took me by surprise when I heard about it!
I shall now move swiftly on to the events of, what was to be termed “MAN night!” This is an event in which the SLS team, or rather the male brethren of this team decided to get together and rejoice in a bit of testosterone fuelled activity. Now before you all get concerned, this just entails manly films, manly food and manly games. In the end the girls were invited too but, just to make sure I would be welcomed to the event when I arrived I decided to man up! I achieved this through the advent of facial hair! I drew a beard and moustache on my face. It was some very artful stubble that was added to my chin and amused the rest of the men greatly!
Most of us had arrived at Dunk’s house via my car and we had a little fun on the roads on the way. These particular roads involved hairpin turns and steep hills which were a delight and challenge to my driving skills. It has to be said that a little bit of under steer was undertaken and a few aggressive comments aimed at the tourists that did not move into a passing places fast enough but nothing too bad. Saying that maybe the testosterone fuelled events that were to follow were already having an effect on me! However, we arrived, got given a brief tour of the spectacular house and then settled down to watch the epic battle of COD – Call Of Duty.
Frazer, Duncan, Jimbo and Ewan (being the men) were all happily shooting each other into oblivion whilst Ruth, Natalie and myself were rather more content to watch. Manly food was eventually served and we decided to watch a manly film. Whilst deciding which film this was to be I asked if we had Casino Royale only to be shown it was right in front of me – fail! However we decided to watch that but half way through Jimbo and Dunk decided to head back to Call of Duty, being rather addicted to it I fear.
After the film we all played a few more rounds of COD, with me joining in this time and getting rather aggressive, screaming profanities at the screen whenever I got shot. It must be understood dear reader that I do not have a particular adeptness for the game! I eventually washed my beard off and we all got rather sleepy so headed back, again with a car full along the winding roads in the soothing darkness. A very good night although I thought it was lacking in poker!
And now we move to the exciting events of a few days later. The whole day had been glorious and I was itching to get the camera out after work, and so I did. I met up with Ewan (another photography enthusiast) and we headed west towards Loch Na Keal, myself hoping for otters and Ewan hoping for some birding action. Ewan got his wish and spotted some Red Deer as well but unfortunately, once again our little brown and furry friends proved elusive. However the light was dying in a most spectacular fashion and so we decided to follow it west along the north road of Loch Na Keal to see what we could find. There were some brilliant colours and, as ever, spectacular scenery as we drove in our little convoy, stopping off at the occasional passing place for a quick snap and scan before heading off again.
After passing through a typical Scottish traffic jam – a heard of sheep on the road – we stopped at a peaceful spot looking over towards Gometra. One startled beach bunny and two majestic deer on a hill later I realised something almightily exciting. There were highland cows in the vicinity! I hurried over with the camera and got some very Scottish looking shots of the beautiful and somewhat hairy bovines munching away in a field of thistles. All you needed was a bagpipe player and some shortbread! I tore myself away from the highland moo moos back to Ewan and his scope then decided to head further along past Eos Fors to chase the last of the light. A couple of birds of prey and an arty snap involving a tree later I drove back to Ewan and, given the light conditions we both decided to call it a night. We meandered slowly back checking out potential wildlife spots from our cars and mentally sifting through the photos we had taken that evening. For me it was nothing stunningly spectacular but I was content with the results nonetheless. I waved Ewan off as we went our separate ways through Salen and was once again overcome by that sense of tranquillity that manages to hit me almost every evening on Mull. Our epic
photography tour had been a great success and another night fell over the Island.
Next time on the Mull Adventure Blog team Yorkie beaches a boat...twice and I get put under the spell of mustelid magic in epic proportions!
Sarah
Guide
A few hours later Natalie received a call from Popz letting us know what they’d seen so we could update our sightings board. What Popz told Natalie was that they were with his favourite animal. What is his favourite animal I hear you ask? It turns out it is the Risso’s Dolphin, a much rarer visitor to these waters than the Common or Bottlenose. Much excitement ensued! Any visitor into the office received an excited babble of information from me and the grin could not be wiped from my face. I do believe a little dancing was undertaken too! It must be understood dear reader that these particular cetaceans had not been seen by Sea Life Surveys in 2 seasons and, particularly for me, their oddities made them ever more endearing! They have a rather bulbous head, have scratches along their flanks and back and get very pale as they age so, as you can imagine, they’re quite unusual creatures, and although I hadn’t seen them personally, it was fantastic to know they were out there and that our best beloved passengers has gotten the chance to see them.
A few more hours later and the trip returned. Everyone onboard completely soaked through but happy at their sightings. The guides came into the office, hugging, giving high fives and sharing their experience with us. In that moment I have to say that I felt very honoured to be a member of the team and excited about what else we might see out there. It was a very happy day for us all, despite, as Ewan called it, the seven hour shower!
Now it came to pass, purely by coincidence that during this happy moment a man came in to ask information, to which I happily explained what he needed to know and then hastened to add the reason behind the grin, the dancing and the general excitement in my tone. Apparently this all made an impression on him as, next day he came in again asking for me. More specifically he asked for the enthusiastic one that looks like an Eskimo! Now personally I don’t see it, I really don’t, maybe it’s how pale I am but either way the remark took me by surprise when I heard about it!
I shall now move swiftly on to the events of, what was to be termed “MAN night!” This is an event in which the SLS team, or rather the male brethren of this team decided to get together and rejoice in a bit of testosterone fuelled activity. Now before you all get concerned, this just entails manly films, manly food and manly games. In the end the girls were invited too but, just to make sure I would be welcomed to the event when I arrived I decided to man up! I achieved this through the advent of facial hair! I drew a beard and moustache on my face. It was some very artful stubble that was added to my chin and amused the rest of the men greatly!
Most of us had arrived at Dunk’s house via my car and we had a little fun on the roads on the way. These particular roads involved hairpin turns and steep hills which were a delight and challenge to my driving skills. It has to be said that a little bit of under steer was undertaken and a few aggressive comments aimed at the tourists that did not move into a passing places fast enough but nothing too bad. Saying that maybe the testosterone fuelled events that were to follow were already having an effect on me! However, we arrived, got given a brief tour of the spectacular house and then settled down to watch the epic battle of COD – Call Of Duty.
Frazer, Duncan, Jimbo and Ewan (being the men) were all happily shooting each other into oblivion whilst Ruth, Natalie and myself were rather more content to watch. Manly food was eventually served and we decided to watch a manly film. Whilst deciding which film this was to be I asked if we had Casino Royale only to be shown it was right in front of me – fail! However we decided to watch that but half way through Jimbo and Dunk decided to head back to Call of Duty, being rather addicted to it I fear.
After the film we all played a few more rounds of COD, with me joining in this time and getting rather aggressive, screaming profanities at the screen whenever I got shot. It must be understood dear reader that I do not have a particular adeptness for the game! I eventually washed my beard off and we all got rather sleepy so headed back, again with a car full along the winding roads in the soothing darkness. A very good night although I thought it was lacking in poker!
And now we move to the exciting events of a few days later. The whole day had been glorious and I was itching to get the camera out after work, and so I did. I met up with Ewan (another photography enthusiast) and we headed west towards Loch Na Keal, myself hoping for otters and Ewan hoping for some birding action. Ewan got his wish and spotted some Red Deer as well but unfortunately, once again our little brown and furry friends proved elusive. However the light was dying in a most spectacular fashion and so we decided to follow it west along the north road of Loch Na Keal to see what we could find. There were some brilliant colours and, as ever, spectacular scenery as we drove in our little convoy, stopping off at the occasional passing place for a quick snap and scan before heading off again.
After passing through a typical Scottish traffic jam – a heard of sheep on the road – we stopped at a peaceful spot looking over towards Gometra. One startled beach bunny and two majestic deer on a hill later I realised something almightily exciting. There were highland cows in the vicinity! I hurried over with the camera and got some very Scottish looking shots of the beautiful and somewhat hairy bovines munching away in a field of thistles. All you needed was a bagpipe player and some shortbread! I tore myself away from the highland moo moos back to Ewan and his scope then decided to head further along past Eos Fors to chase the last of the light. A couple of birds of prey and an arty snap involving a tree later I drove back to Ewan and, given the light conditions we both decided to call it a night. We meandered slowly back checking out potential wildlife spots from our cars and mentally sifting through the photos we had taken that evening. For me it was nothing stunningly spectacular but I was content with the results nonetheless. I waved Ewan off as we went our separate ways through Salen and was once again overcome by that sense of tranquillity that manages to hit me almost every evening on Mull. Our epic
photography tour had been a great success and another night fell over the Island.
Next time on the Mull Adventure Blog team Yorkie beaches a boat...twice and I get put under the spell of mustelid magic in epic proportions!
Sarah
Guide
Part 6
And so it has been, dear reader that the days and weeks continued. New experiences were had and new lessons learnt every day but an old routine of sorts has come to pass and it makes the entire experience feel utterly fantastic. Days on the boat have been fun, days in the office a laugh and on the occasional days off I have had a chance to catch my breath, sit back and admire where I am and what I’m doing.
Unfortunately, part of this routine appears to involve a mistake I am commonly making (among many others) over dolphin and porpoise fins. Many of our best beloved passenger’s mistake porpoise sightings for dolphins and so if people say they’ve seen a dolphin I always assume it’s a porpoise. Many of my avid readers may well remember the same mistake being made on the trip that Andrea and Helen joined me on. Dear reader I did it again! Bottlenose dolphins popped up to say hello this time, in a most unexpected circumstance. They even surprised Popz!
Events in the office have sometimes taken me by surprise also. For example I was completely unprepared for the moment when, happily (or has happy as one can be completing such a task) I was logging feedback form information into the database when along came a couple of passengers we’d had on board who came from none other than SOUTHWELL! As I inputted the address, I kid you not; I actually shed a few tears! Matters were not helped by a song with distinct memories of university life starting to play over the stereo and I shed a few more. It hit me then (as it repeatedly does many times a day) that this was not just another summer with university waiting for me to return to. This is me, for the rest of my life. Indeed a scary thought to be thinking in the middle of a visitors centre full of tourists in the middle of the morning time! However, the moment passed and I carried on, plagued for the rest of the day by the echoes of the past three years of my life.
Back on the boat and trips have been good (as they always are of course!) When it comes to SLS, spirits are never dampened by mere bad weather, especially when extra high fives between the crew occur constantly over good sightings and jokes about the link between the mysterious missing bog brush and Ewan’s hair come into play! I assure you we are all professionals but some serious fun is had on that boat! I’m even driving Greenie although I still can’t quite remember how to start her up properly. In the office as well I’m finding that I KNOW things now! I can answer the phone confidently and enjoy the challenges that are often brought in with the tourists, of course with a smile on my slightly salty and wind burnt face!
And so we have arrived at the day of the Coll Cricket Charter where the trip we had was not for our best beloved holidaymakers but for a local cricket team situated on the Isle of Coll who were coming over to play Mull in a friendly tournament. Now for those of you who may not know, Coll is a small Island with a population of around 220 people and, as I was to find out, a far larger population of the infamous and dreaded Scottish Midgie! However I get ahead of myself, as before we reached Coll we had to get there to pick up our cricket players. This involved Ruth, Popz and myself all waking up at an obscenely early hour to take Sula Beag out to Coll. As the dawn broke over my caravan I groaned and cursed the idea of waking up (as I do most mornings!) and then scrambled out of bed and off to Tobermory then away we went to Coll. The morning skies arranged themselves in front of my eyes as we headed up the Sound and I found myself admiring what a glorious way it was to wake up in the morning! This being said I had already achieved the somewhat irksome task of waking and therefore was in a much better state of mind to enjoy the morning as it was!
We arrived on Coll, passing many a sleepy Atlantic Grey Seal among the rocks on the shoreline and loaded up with bats, balls, cucumber sandwiches and the players themselves. These players turned out to be rather interesting characters...”jolly good chaps” you might say! Whilst the loading was in process all of us were being viciously attacked by vast hoards of hungry midgies and we were all grateful that they were not this bad on Mull itself. And so we headed back to Mull, keeping our passengers topped up with tea and coffee and trying to avoid being hit by their practice swings!
Once back on Mull I found myself with a few hours to spare as I wasn’t needed until we had to take the cricketers back to Coll after their match. Being a beautifully glorious day I decided to go along the coastal walk that heads towards Rubha Nan Gall lighthouse and look out for porpoise over the Sound of Mull. This I did, becoming invariably muddy in the process and, although I didn’t spot any porpoise I had a lovely few hours up there. Meanwhile Ewan had volunteered to play for the team and helped lead them to victory!
The time came for the Cricketers to be returned home, jovial and triumphant and clambering aboard the boat laden with celebratory whisky and the coveted cricket trophy! A few too many “wee drams” (which were not so wee) later we were once again back on Coll and turning round for the last time to head towards Mull. Popz let Ruth be our skipper for most of the journey and we sat and enjoyed the evening, heading towards the darkening skies and admiring the spectacular scenery and light that the Hebrides has to offer. We were joined by a few pretty juvenile Kittiwakes and the occasional gannet who joined me in watching the clouds shift into ever changeable shapes (many resembling elephants!) I got to sit on the bow, listening to the waves whispering secrets to each other whilst the water rushed towards and beneath me. The sky showed me every imaginable shade of blue and grey it had to offer and I had never felt more at peace with the world. It was a stunningly calm evening and one that will stay with me for a long time.
Eventually the surrounding islands disappeared into the darkness and Ruth, Popz and I gathered in the wheelhouse, following the blinking lighthouses back into Tobermory. The day had been long and varied and different but as I drove back to the caravan my tired head could still recall that scene of beauty, one that could not be captured in an image, no matter how skilled the photographer and one that drifted in and out of my dreams that night like my own version of heaven.
Next time on the Mull Adventure Blog...I grow a beard, team Yorkie attacks the west of Mull with cameras, and a rare cetacean comes to say hello!
Sarah
Guide
Unfortunately, part of this routine appears to involve a mistake I am commonly making (among many others) over dolphin and porpoise fins. Many of our best beloved passenger’s mistake porpoise sightings for dolphins and so if people say they’ve seen a dolphin I always assume it’s a porpoise. Many of my avid readers may well remember the same mistake being made on the trip that Andrea and Helen joined me on. Dear reader I did it again! Bottlenose dolphins popped up to say hello this time, in a most unexpected circumstance. They even surprised Popz!
Events in the office have sometimes taken me by surprise also. For example I was completely unprepared for the moment when, happily (or has happy as one can be completing such a task) I was logging feedback form information into the database when along came a couple of passengers we’d had on board who came from none other than SOUTHWELL! As I inputted the address, I kid you not; I actually shed a few tears! Matters were not helped by a song with distinct memories of university life starting to play over the stereo and I shed a few more. It hit me then (as it repeatedly does many times a day) that this was not just another summer with university waiting for me to return to. This is me, for the rest of my life. Indeed a scary thought to be thinking in the middle of a visitors centre full of tourists in the middle of the morning time! However, the moment passed and I carried on, plagued for the rest of the day by the echoes of the past three years of my life.
Back on the boat and trips have been good (as they always are of course!) When it comes to SLS, spirits are never dampened by mere bad weather, especially when extra high fives between the crew occur constantly over good sightings and jokes about the link between the mysterious missing bog brush and Ewan’s hair come into play! I assure you we are all professionals but some serious fun is had on that boat! I’m even driving Greenie although I still can’t quite remember how to start her up properly. In the office as well I’m finding that I KNOW things now! I can answer the phone confidently and enjoy the challenges that are often brought in with the tourists, of course with a smile on my slightly salty and wind burnt face!
And so we have arrived at the day of the Coll Cricket Charter where the trip we had was not for our best beloved holidaymakers but for a local cricket team situated on the Isle of Coll who were coming over to play Mull in a friendly tournament. Now for those of you who may not know, Coll is a small Island with a population of around 220 people and, as I was to find out, a far larger population of the infamous and dreaded Scottish Midgie! However I get ahead of myself, as before we reached Coll we had to get there to pick up our cricket players. This involved Ruth, Popz and myself all waking up at an obscenely early hour to take Sula Beag out to Coll. As the dawn broke over my caravan I groaned and cursed the idea of waking up (as I do most mornings!) and then scrambled out of bed and off to Tobermory then away we went to Coll. The morning skies arranged themselves in front of my eyes as we headed up the Sound and I found myself admiring what a glorious way it was to wake up in the morning! This being said I had already achieved the somewhat irksome task of waking and therefore was in a much better state of mind to enjoy the morning as it was!
We arrived on Coll, passing many a sleepy Atlantic Grey Seal among the rocks on the shoreline and loaded up with bats, balls, cucumber sandwiches and the players themselves. These players turned out to be rather interesting characters...”jolly good chaps” you might say! Whilst the loading was in process all of us were being viciously attacked by vast hoards of hungry midgies and we were all grateful that they were not this bad on Mull itself. And so we headed back to Mull, keeping our passengers topped up with tea and coffee and trying to avoid being hit by their practice swings!
Once back on Mull I found myself with a few hours to spare as I wasn’t needed until we had to take the cricketers back to Coll after their match. Being a beautifully glorious day I decided to go along the coastal walk that heads towards Rubha Nan Gall lighthouse and look out for porpoise over the Sound of Mull. This I did, becoming invariably muddy in the process and, although I didn’t spot any porpoise I had a lovely few hours up there. Meanwhile Ewan had volunteered to play for the team and helped lead them to victory!
The time came for the Cricketers to be returned home, jovial and triumphant and clambering aboard the boat laden with celebratory whisky and the coveted cricket trophy! A few too many “wee drams” (which were not so wee) later we were once again back on Coll and turning round for the last time to head towards Mull. Popz let Ruth be our skipper for most of the journey and we sat and enjoyed the evening, heading towards the darkening skies and admiring the spectacular scenery and light that the Hebrides has to offer. We were joined by a few pretty juvenile Kittiwakes and the occasional gannet who joined me in watching the clouds shift into ever changeable shapes (many resembling elephants!) I got to sit on the bow, listening to the waves whispering secrets to each other whilst the water rushed towards and beneath me. The sky showed me every imaginable shade of blue and grey it had to offer and I had never felt more at peace with the world. It was a stunningly calm evening and one that will stay with me for a long time.
Eventually the surrounding islands disappeared into the darkness and Ruth, Popz and I gathered in the wheelhouse, following the blinking lighthouses back into Tobermory. The day had been long and varied and different but as I drove back to the caravan my tired head could still recall that scene of beauty, one that could not be captured in an image, no matter how skilled the photographer and one that drifted in and out of my dreams that night like my own version of heaven.
Next time on the Mull Adventure Blog...I grow a beard, team Yorkie attacks the west of Mull with cameras, and a rare cetacean comes to say hello!
Sarah
Guide
Part 5
When we think about diversity, hopefully it’s how we see our cultures, maybe it’s how we see our opinions and possibly we think of that dance group that won X factor’s got talent or something along those lines! But recently dear reader, life has had some very diverse twists and turns for me. You can go from peaceful serenity to lively conversation and enthusiastic (!) dancing in the space of an hour. It’s amazing how quickly you can adapt and savour the moment, definitely a good lesson to have learned.
But I do apologise most profusely, my ramblings have become a bore once again and so I shall plough on with the adventure tale. However I hope to show through this what a diverse mix of experiences this island has to offer.
It began with another glorious evening after a day at work in which a lovely lass called Megan (who was working where I live) knocked on my caravan and explained that a few people were going out on the bay with the boat and would I like to come? I of course said yes, mentally noting the beautiful light and packing both camera and long lens. She then explained that they were going for a swim and would I like to go in too. After the initial shock at how brave (or crazy) they were being I declined given my distinct ineptness at this particular sport. The wellies were donned, the boat launched and out into the bay we went. The peace out there was indescribable, we weren’t even that far out but the water was but rippling glass, the sun in its last throes of setting and, despite being by the “main road” not a vehicle in sight or earshot. And so, as I happily snapped away, the three girls and my landlord jumped in. To say it was cold was most definitely an understatement as I understood it but they seemed to enjoy it nonetheless. I took some photos of them splashing around with the sun behind them – pure magic and then they all clambered back in the boat, shivering but exhilarated. After that we floated around the bay for a while, soaking up the atmosphere and feeling calm and content with the world.
Once back on shore we traipsed up the track to the house and soon after I was called to head over to Tobermory for a night out with the SLS crew. After having jumped in the car to do the now familiar trek to the town, I found myself directed to the pub next door to the Harbour Visitor Centre and inside found Ruth followed by Lydia and Craig (ex guides) as well as Duncan. We headed over to “The Mishnish” which, I was to learn was a rather infamous little pub that hosted a cheesy mini disco type thing occasionally. Everyone in there seemed to know everyone else (a hazard of island living I guess) and soon Lydia and Ruth were dancing away to some of the songs that held memories for them from last year. Lydia seemed somewhat impressed that I was up for joining in without any alcohol gracing my system although it took the boys a little “convincing”! Frazer, who we found at the pub had possibly had a little too much of the stuff in his system but we were all having a good time. It struck me at this point that barely an hour previously I had been on a boat in a bay as chilled as it was possible to be and now I was enjoying some thumping tunes in a pub. Diverse? Yes!
3am came and went and with the knowledge that most of us would be at sea tomorrow we thought it wise to call it a night. I say this but the time did just happen to coincide, most coincidently with closing time! Either way, everyone piled in my car so I could take them up the rather formidable hill. This most short of car journeys turned out to be impeccably hilarious! Firstly the windscreen was misted up but I set off anyway, much to the concern of Ruth who was convinced I couldn’t see a thing. Secondly I was being directed (most unhelpfully) in every direction they could think of before I realised where it was we were headed. Thirdly, half way up the afore mentioned formidable hill there is a junction that doesn’t look like a junction. Now do understand dear reader that I am a responsible driver (despite others claims!) so given the time of night and generic lack of cars on the island I swung round and through the junction without much thought. This action then prompted Lydia to ask, in a most stringent tone whether I had bothered to even LOOK left?! It made me chuckle to say the least!
After dropping off the SLS crew at Ruth’s house and getting excited about seeing a hedgehog in the driveway I headed back to the caravan. The road, obviously empty, did seem rather eerie in the pitch black but I was accompanied by the eye shine of many a sheep, deer and the odd rabbit having a late night party.
Once back at Glen Aros Lodge I walked up the track and came across two Australians sitting in patio chairs wrapped up in duvets watching the stars. Now several things struck me as unusual about this particular scene as I’m guessing my dear readers can imagine, it was 3:30am after all! Admiring the stunning sky for a brief second I conceded that it was indeed bed time and collapsed inside my sleeping bag for a grand total of 4 hours sleep.
Needless to say the next day brought with it some aspect of fatigue but I have failed to mention the special-ness of what the next day would bring. Along with sunshine it brought LIFEBOAT DAY! Now some of you may wonder what lifeboat day actually is. In brief it is a day where money and awareness is raised for lifeboats and the work that they do along the coast and out at sea. Work that, I must add, is of the utmost importance. SLS was running seal cruises all day with all proceeds going to the lifeboats. As well as this there were various stalls in the car park, tours of the lifeboats themselves and even, much to my delight, a rodeo bull! (Just to clarify, this was a mechanical bull, not a real live creature.) Now on this particular day I was working in the office with Natalie but soon entered into the spirit of lifeboat day (for it does indeed have a spirit) in every way I could. One such way was decided to locate some facepaint and decorate my face with the lifeboat flag. Upon closer inspection this did seem to resemble the England football team flag but with RNLI stamped across my forehead and cheeks I’m hoping our visitors got the point. This prompted a brief conversation with my boss as to whether I should undertake some facepainting as a stall outside. Encouraged by Maggie (a truly awesome person and sister of my hero) I did indeed go outside and started painting some flags on people. This quickly evolved into butterflies, big cats and, on one occasion, a pink kitten with green glitter spots!
Whilst this was going on we had Ewan and Frazer selling seal cruises by the bucket load (with Frazer becoming a human billboard) and Duncan guiding on Sula Beag. Meanwhile Ruth and Lydia were preparing for the grand and epic life raft race and dear reader it was indeed an epic affair!
Now dear reader as most of you know I have never lived on Mull for a considerable length of time and thus was unaware of the fun to be had on lifeboat day in general and in particular, the hilarity and comradeship that occurs during the life raft race. SLS did indeed have a life raft entered, homemade as per specification. Anticipation mounted as the (essential) life jackets were donned and rafts set afloat in the harbour. Team SLS set off and almost immediately were in the water so decided to swim. And swim they did, beating several rather imaginative raft designs as well as lifeboat staff themselves! They didn’t quite win outright but it was a very valiant effort and stood as I was on the quayside, happily taking photographic evidence I felt truly honoured to be part of such an amazing team.
I now turn your attention back to the mechanical rodeo bull mentioned earlier. I, of course, child that I am, was desperate to have a go and I finally got the chance after the race. I vaulted on and away we spun until, 42 seconds later I fell off, smearing face paint everywhere and laughing my head off. I had 48 seconds to beat so immediately tried again only to fail at 40 seconds this time. Humbly beaten I cheered as the next person sailed through 1 minute and beyond, he was good!
And so it was that the awesome-ness of lifeboat day came to a close and everything was packed up. Whilst packing up was undertaken I went back into the office to find Nat and offer apologies at rather abandoning her throughout the day. What I found however were several crates of alcohol! It turned out we (SLS and the lifeboat crew) were to be having a barbeque...at sunset...on a pontoon...on Mull! I fell in love with the idea instantly (who wouldn’t?!) and helped take afore mentioned alcohol, burgers, sausages etc down to Sula Beag.
We set off straight across the harbour to pick up some people and then on to the pontoon. It was beyond idyllic! Some fished for mackerel over the side whilst Popz gave a small speech, punctuated perfectly by the news that the first fish had been caught! The sun shone, music was played, food was eaten, photos were taken; it was magic! It should be mentioned that by this point my face paint had been on my face for a few hours too long and was beginning to annoy me but in such a happy mood it barely mattered. However it was at this time that a small wager was placed on the fishing proficiency of two of our friends. Lydia was adamant she could catch a fish quickly and so this was put to the test. Dear reader she was wrong, but only just! And so the forfeit was undertaken, in she jumped and swam back onto the pontoon to dry off in the last of the sun.
Our appetites sated, the temperature turning cold and with the day nearly over we decided to start thinking about heading back. But not before Lippy and a friend decided to have a swim. The decision was made to jump in from Sula Beag. Lippy made a spectacular dive and splash closely followed by his friend confidently shouting “APRIL FOOL!” over the side and sauntering back along the boat, remaining warm and dry. We all laughed!
Lifeboat day ended and recently we found it raised £3000 so we were all very proud of our efforts. A fabulous team doing amazing things for a worthy cause.
Sarah
Guide
But I do apologise most profusely, my ramblings have become a bore once again and so I shall plough on with the adventure tale. However I hope to show through this what a diverse mix of experiences this island has to offer.
It began with another glorious evening after a day at work in which a lovely lass called Megan (who was working where I live) knocked on my caravan and explained that a few people were going out on the bay with the boat and would I like to come? I of course said yes, mentally noting the beautiful light and packing both camera and long lens. She then explained that they were going for a swim and would I like to go in too. After the initial shock at how brave (or crazy) they were being I declined given my distinct ineptness at this particular sport. The wellies were donned, the boat launched and out into the bay we went. The peace out there was indescribable, we weren’t even that far out but the water was but rippling glass, the sun in its last throes of setting and, despite being by the “main road” not a vehicle in sight or earshot. And so, as I happily snapped away, the three girls and my landlord jumped in. To say it was cold was most definitely an understatement as I understood it but they seemed to enjoy it nonetheless. I took some photos of them splashing around with the sun behind them – pure magic and then they all clambered back in the boat, shivering but exhilarated. After that we floated around the bay for a while, soaking up the atmosphere and feeling calm and content with the world.
Once back on shore we traipsed up the track to the house and soon after I was called to head over to Tobermory for a night out with the SLS crew. After having jumped in the car to do the now familiar trek to the town, I found myself directed to the pub next door to the Harbour Visitor Centre and inside found Ruth followed by Lydia and Craig (ex guides) as well as Duncan. We headed over to “The Mishnish” which, I was to learn was a rather infamous little pub that hosted a cheesy mini disco type thing occasionally. Everyone in there seemed to know everyone else (a hazard of island living I guess) and soon Lydia and Ruth were dancing away to some of the songs that held memories for them from last year. Lydia seemed somewhat impressed that I was up for joining in without any alcohol gracing my system although it took the boys a little “convincing”! Frazer, who we found at the pub had possibly had a little too much of the stuff in his system but we were all having a good time. It struck me at this point that barely an hour previously I had been on a boat in a bay as chilled as it was possible to be and now I was enjoying some thumping tunes in a pub. Diverse? Yes!
3am came and went and with the knowledge that most of us would be at sea tomorrow we thought it wise to call it a night. I say this but the time did just happen to coincide, most coincidently with closing time! Either way, everyone piled in my car so I could take them up the rather formidable hill. This most short of car journeys turned out to be impeccably hilarious! Firstly the windscreen was misted up but I set off anyway, much to the concern of Ruth who was convinced I couldn’t see a thing. Secondly I was being directed (most unhelpfully) in every direction they could think of before I realised where it was we were headed. Thirdly, half way up the afore mentioned formidable hill there is a junction that doesn’t look like a junction. Now do understand dear reader that I am a responsible driver (despite others claims!) so given the time of night and generic lack of cars on the island I swung round and through the junction without much thought. This action then prompted Lydia to ask, in a most stringent tone whether I had bothered to even LOOK left?! It made me chuckle to say the least!
After dropping off the SLS crew at Ruth’s house and getting excited about seeing a hedgehog in the driveway I headed back to the caravan. The road, obviously empty, did seem rather eerie in the pitch black but I was accompanied by the eye shine of many a sheep, deer and the odd rabbit having a late night party.
Once back at Glen Aros Lodge I walked up the track and came across two Australians sitting in patio chairs wrapped up in duvets watching the stars. Now several things struck me as unusual about this particular scene as I’m guessing my dear readers can imagine, it was 3:30am after all! Admiring the stunning sky for a brief second I conceded that it was indeed bed time and collapsed inside my sleeping bag for a grand total of 4 hours sleep.
Needless to say the next day brought with it some aspect of fatigue but I have failed to mention the special-ness of what the next day would bring. Along with sunshine it brought LIFEBOAT DAY! Now some of you may wonder what lifeboat day actually is. In brief it is a day where money and awareness is raised for lifeboats and the work that they do along the coast and out at sea. Work that, I must add, is of the utmost importance. SLS was running seal cruises all day with all proceeds going to the lifeboats. As well as this there were various stalls in the car park, tours of the lifeboats themselves and even, much to my delight, a rodeo bull! (Just to clarify, this was a mechanical bull, not a real live creature.) Now on this particular day I was working in the office with Natalie but soon entered into the spirit of lifeboat day (for it does indeed have a spirit) in every way I could. One such way was decided to locate some facepaint and decorate my face with the lifeboat flag. Upon closer inspection this did seem to resemble the England football team flag but with RNLI stamped across my forehead and cheeks I’m hoping our visitors got the point. This prompted a brief conversation with my boss as to whether I should undertake some facepainting as a stall outside. Encouraged by Maggie (a truly awesome person and sister of my hero) I did indeed go outside and started painting some flags on people. This quickly evolved into butterflies, big cats and, on one occasion, a pink kitten with green glitter spots!
Whilst this was going on we had Ewan and Frazer selling seal cruises by the bucket load (with Frazer becoming a human billboard) and Duncan guiding on Sula Beag. Meanwhile Ruth and Lydia were preparing for the grand and epic life raft race and dear reader it was indeed an epic affair!
Now dear reader as most of you know I have never lived on Mull for a considerable length of time and thus was unaware of the fun to be had on lifeboat day in general and in particular, the hilarity and comradeship that occurs during the life raft race. SLS did indeed have a life raft entered, homemade as per specification. Anticipation mounted as the (essential) life jackets were donned and rafts set afloat in the harbour. Team SLS set off and almost immediately were in the water so decided to swim. And swim they did, beating several rather imaginative raft designs as well as lifeboat staff themselves! They didn’t quite win outright but it was a very valiant effort and stood as I was on the quayside, happily taking photographic evidence I felt truly honoured to be part of such an amazing team.
I now turn your attention back to the mechanical rodeo bull mentioned earlier. I, of course, child that I am, was desperate to have a go and I finally got the chance after the race. I vaulted on and away we spun until, 42 seconds later I fell off, smearing face paint everywhere and laughing my head off. I had 48 seconds to beat so immediately tried again only to fail at 40 seconds this time. Humbly beaten I cheered as the next person sailed through 1 minute and beyond, he was good!
And so it was that the awesome-ness of lifeboat day came to a close and everything was packed up. Whilst packing up was undertaken I went back into the office to find Nat and offer apologies at rather abandoning her throughout the day. What I found however were several crates of alcohol! It turned out we (SLS and the lifeboat crew) were to be having a barbeque...at sunset...on a pontoon...on Mull! I fell in love with the idea instantly (who wouldn’t?!) and helped take afore mentioned alcohol, burgers, sausages etc down to Sula Beag.
We set off straight across the harbour to pick up some people and then on to the pontoon. It was beyond idyllic! Some fished for mackerel over the side whilst Popz gave a small speech, punctuated perfectly by the news that the first fish had been caught! The sun shone, music was played, food was eaten, photos were taken; it was magic! It should be mentioned that by this point my face paint had been on my face for a few hours too long and was beginning to annoy me but in such a happy mood it barely mattered. However it was at this time that a small wager was placed on the fishing proficiency of two of our friends. Lydia was adamant she could catch a fish quickly and so this was put to the test. Dear reader she was wrong, but only just! And so the forfeit was undertaken, in she jumped and swam back onto the pontoon to dry off in the last of the sun.
Our appetites sated, the temperature turning cold and with the day nearly over we decided to start thinking about heading back. But not before Lippy and a friend decided to have a swim. The decision was made to jump in from Sula Beag. Lippy made a spectacular dive and splash closely followed by his friend confidently shouting “APRIL FOOL!” over the side and sauntering back along the boat, remaining warm and dry. We all laughed!
Lifeboat day ended and recently we found it raised £3000 so we were all very proud of our efforts. A fabulous team doing amazing things for a worthy cause.
Sarah
Guide
Part 4
And so we return once more to a little corner of my brain to explore what lies within. And I do believe that where we left that exploration was at the pony trekking adventure with Helen and Andrea.
The trek set off down the lane and into a trot along a short stretch of road. It was fabulous to be back in the saddle and Smokey had a lovely gait. As I was promised he did indeed look after me and it was only a short amount of time before we reached the beach. This particular beach was a lovely wild affair, pebbles stretching far, calm water and, as we were to find out, fantastic wildlife! I won’t go so far as to suggest that we spotted an otter, that would just be ridiculous now wouldn’t it! However, once we’d crossed a fast flowing stream and along a shingle bank towards the sand we were joined by a White Tailed Sea Eagle. Now I thought I was getting good views of these creatures from the boat but they paled in comparison to this encounter! Flying directly overhead, seemingly lead by curiosity at the four-legged creatures we were riding our feathered friend circled above and ever closer. What a sight!
And so it was that it was time for our canter across the sand. As I’m sure many people will agree, there can be something rather magical about cantering along a beach, especially with mountainous backdrops and friends on a horse by your side. However Smokey, obviously having seen these spectacular sights many a time before, was more concerned by his stomach. Just as we were setting off into a canter the greedy little guy grabbed a huge frond of seaweed and was happily munching away on it as we trotted and eventually into the canter. I was told he was like a rocking horse which I found to be true and we sailed along the shoreline with the large piece of seaweed dangling from his mouth! The canter didn’t last long, Smokey being more content to trot and myself unable to convince him otherwise but it was absolutely fantastic and I know it was a dream come true for Helen. Andrea’s horse was content to stay just behind mine and so they didn’t really have a canter but all was not lost as we shall explore later!
With the canter being over we headed up the beach and along some tracks into areas of forest, periodically trotting and walking and occasionally stopping when Smokey thought of his stomach again and I was unable to pull his head up from the ground. He was a cheeky little pony! But in fairness for him walking through a field of sweet grass much be like us walking through a field of chocolate. In no time at all we were walking through forests and through little streams and trotting along the lanes in a very enjoyable fashion. Chatting to Helen and Andrea along the way and trying to get photos of us all together was hilarious and I couldn’t stop grinning, it was such a fabulous experience, better than any trek I’ve ever been on and believe me I’ve been on some amazing treks! We even saw deer along the way, who again seemed less frightened of humans if they were on horseback, it’s an interesting concept.
Eventually we found ourselves back along the beach as we headed home for another canter. Helen, Andrea and I hung back so we could all canter together and get a film of it. The idea worked...for the first 5 seconds...until Caspian steamed ahead! However that feeling of unity between all 6 of us for those brief seconds will still with me for a long time. Andrea finally got her canter on Oak and I had another one too although in the film Smokey helpfully decided to head back into the trot. Once back at the stables we happily dismounted, Andrea being shocked by the short distance down from her 14hh pony compared to her 17hh horse back home!
We came back to the caravan happy, smiley and beginning even then to stiffen up! The next morning the insides of my legs were like lead so hobbling around the office was a rather hilarious affair! Sadly though this was the morning Helen and Andrea were leaving and so I said goodbye and they headed off for the ferry, their soaking wet tent taking pride of place in the boot. I was very sad to see them go but glad that they had come, it had been an incredible few days. But now they were gone there was work to be done, in the office, on the boat and with the Otter hunt! Now dear reader these animals are, as I have mentioned before proving themselves to be rather elusive little animals so don’t go thinking that, after all this time on Mull I may well have seen one by now...I haven’t! However one glorious evening after a day in the office I decided to head over to Loch Na Keal as it was supposedly another good Otter site. Having gotten advice about Otters and tides from my boss I knew as I arrived that I had come too late as the tide was high and the seaweed and rocks hidden beneath the water.
However the drive was beyond spectacular with even narrower roads than I had originally experienced on the island, the sea on one side, mountains on the other and the sun in its first early throes of beginning to think about setting. Whilst driving I came across a dried up river bed that led a scar up half the side of a mountain face. For these contexts I will use the term mountain but, although it was very steep and high it was no Everest! Upon spotting this rocky route tempting me upwards I decided to go for it, led on a whim and sheer curiosity as to what I would find at the top. The great climb began. It was epic!
I will use this opportunity dear reader to explain several things I did wrong in this most wonderful of evenings in the hope that you will ignore the terrible example I set if you ever find yourself in a similar situation. For one thing no one knew where I was. That was bad. For another I had no credit on my phone, another error and for a third, although I am reasonably fit, had decent footwear on and was used to doing this sort of thing it had been a long time since I had therefore I knew as I climbed that any slip could prove very disastrous. Thankfully none occurred. Sheep watched me as I left the old riverbed onto vast and steep expanses of grass and ferns. Picking my way up the sheep tracks (ever trusting nature’s judgement) I stopped along the way to take some photos, admire the view and spot the car looking ever smaller on the road far below me.
Reaching the top and clambering over I was slightly breathless from the ascent and stopped on the ledge to look all around me. The views across the loch to Eorsa were stunning and behind me, stretched out as if there was never such a thing as a city were vast plains of heath land, touched neither by man nor animal. I stayed on the top awhile, drinking in the views, trying to do them justice with my camera and reading a little in the peaceful atmosphere.
However this dream could not go on forever and as the sun started to set I began my descent. Once at the bottom again I drove home in the fading light feeling at peace with the world and everything in it. I’ve found Mull does that to you. You can be stressed and pressed for time and worried about a million things but somehow the Island doesn’t let those thoughts encroach on your day. They are still there, waiting to be dealt with but in your own time and at your own pace. Some people describe what’s known as “Mull Magic” and I think this might be it. I don’t believe in magic but I know that Mull has something about it. I think God must have been having a really good day when he made this place and I’m very grateful that he did.
Sarah
Guide
The trek set off down the lane and into a trot along a short stretch of road. It was fabulous to be back in the saddle and Smokey had a lovely gait. As I was promised he did indeed look after me and it was only a short amount of time before we reached the beach. This particular beach was a lovely wild affair, pebbles stretching far, calm water and, as we were to find out, fantastic wildlife! I won’t go so far as to suggest that we spotted an otter, that would just be ridiculous now wouldn’t it! However, once we’d crossed a fast flowing stream and along a shingle bank towards the sand we were joined by a White Tailed Sea Eagle. Now I thought I was getting good views of these creatures from the boat but they paled in comparison to this encounter! Flying directly overhead, seemingly lead by curiosity at the four-legged creatures we were riding our feathered friend circled above and ever closer. What a sight!
And so it was that it was time for our canter across the sand. As I’m sure many people will agree, there can be something rather magical about cantering along a beach, especially with mountainous backdrops and friends on a horse by your side. However Smokey, obviously having seen these spectacular sights many a time before, was more concerned by his stomach. Just as we were setting off into a canter the greedy little guy grabbed a huge frond of seaweed and was happily munching away on it as we trotted and eventually into the canter. I was told he was like a rocking horse which I found to be true and we sailed along the shoreline with the large piece of seaweed dangling from his mouth! The canter didn’t last long, Smokey being more content to trot and myself unable to convince him otherwise but it was absolutely fantastic and I know it was a dream come true for Helen. Andrea’s horse was content to stay just behind mine and so they didn’t really have a canter but all was not lost as we shall explore later!
With the canter being over we headed up the beach and along some tracks into areas of forest, periodically trotting and walking and occasionally stopping when Smokey thought of his stomach again and I was unable to pull his head up from the ground. He was a cheeky little pony! But in fairness for him walking through a field of sweet grass much be like us walking through a field of chocolate. In no time at all we were walking through forests and through little streams and trotting along the lanes in a very enjoyable fashion. Chatting to Helen and Andrea along the way and trying to get photos of us all together was hilarious and I couldn’t stop grinning, it was such a fabulous experience, better than any trek I’ve ever been on and believe me I’ve been on some amazing treks! We even saw deer along the way, who again seemed less frightened of humans if they were on horseback, it’s an interesting concept.
Eventually we found ourselves back along the beach as we headed home for another canter. Helen, Andrea and I hung back so we could all canter together and get a film of it. The idea worked...for the first 5 seconds...until Caspian steamed ahead! However that feeling of unity between all 6 of us for those brief seconds will still with me for a long time. Andrea finally got her canter on Oak and I had another one too although in the film Smokey helpfully decided to head back into the trot. Once back at the stables we happily dismounted, Andrea being shocked by the short distance down from her 14hh pony compared to her 17hh horse back home!
We came back to the caravan happy, smiley and beginning even then to stiffen up! The next morning the insides of my legs were like lead so hobbling around the office was a rather hilarious affair! Sadly though this was the morning Helen and Andrea were leaving and so I said goodbye and they headed off for the ferry, their soaking wet tent taking pride of place in the boot. I was very sad to see them go but glad that they had come, it had been an incredible few days. But now they were gone there was work to be done, in the office, on the boat and with the Otter hunt! Now dear reader these animals are, as I have mentioned before proving themselves to be rather elusive little animals so don’t go thinking that, after all this time on Mull I may well have seen one by now...I haven’t! However one glorious evening after a day in the office I decided to head over to Loch Na Keal as it was supposedly another good Otter site. Having gotten advice about Otters and tides from my boss I knew as I arrived that I had come too late as the tide was high and the seaweed and rocks hidden beneath the water.
However the drive was beyond spectacular with even narrower roads than I had originally experienced on the island, the sea on one side, mountains on the other and the sun in its first early throes of beginning to think about setting. Whilst driving I came across a dried up river bed that led a scar up half the side of a mountain face. For these contexts I will use the term mountain but, although it was very steep and high it was no Everest! Upon spotting this rocky route tempting me upwards I decided to go for it, led on a whim and sheer curiosity as to what I would find at the top. The great climb began. It was epic!
I will use this opportunity dear reader to explain several things I did wrong in this most wonderful of evenings in the hope that you will ignore the terrible example I set if you ever find yourself in a similar situation. For one thing no one knew where I was. That was bad. For another I had no credit on my phone, another error and for a third, although I am reasonably fit, had decent footwear on and was used to doing this sort of thing it had been a long time since I had therefore I knew as I climbed that any slip could prove very disastrous. Thankfully none occurred. Sheep watched me as I left the old riverbed onto vast and steep expanses of grass and ferns. Picking my way up the sheep tracks (ever trusting nature’s judgement) I stopped along the way to take some photos, admire the view and spot the car looking ever smaller on the road far below me.
Reaching the top and clambering over I was slightly breathless from the ascent and stopped on the ledge to look all around me. The views across the loch to Eorsa were stunning and behind me, stretched out as if there was never such a thing as a city were vast plains of heath land, touched neither by man nor animal. I stayed on the top awhile, drinking in the views, trying to do them justice with my camera and reading a little in the peaceful atmosphere.
However this dream could not go on forever and as the sun started to set I began my descent. Once at the bottom again I drove home in the fading light feeling at peace with the world and everything in it. I’ve found Mull does that to you. You can be stressed and pressed for time and worried about a million things but somehow the Island doesn’t let those thoughts encroach on your day. They are still there, waiting to be dealt with but in your own time and at your own pace. Some people describe what’s known as “Mull Magic” and I think this might be it. I don’t believe in magic but I know that Mull has something about it. I think God must have been having a really good day when he made this place and I’m very grateful that he did.
Sarah
Guide
Part 3
It has to be said, that with utmost certainty and complete confidence, this portion of my life is turning out to be rather incredible! I say this not to make any of my dear readers envious but rather at astonishment in my own fortune! There’s something just DIFFERENT about this place but I am so glad that I’m experiencing it. There are moments of overwhelming joy, often when I’m sat on the boat, the sun shining, the wildlife abundant and the passengers enthusiastic and I think that I am being paid to do this incredible and different thing. But most of the time I have this calm contentedness about my life here which I love. Alas I know it can’t last but that’s another thing about this island – I don’t have enough time to take it for granted therefore I can be exhausted from a days’ work and yet still find the energy to climb a mountain, it’s beyond words, it truly is!
I do apologise though, I digress, I’m sure you’re wondering where the ADVENTURE part to this adventure blog as disappeared off to. Fear not dear reader, it shall return! We start this blog with the arrival of Helen (the sister) and Andrea (the friend of the sister and myself). After much anticipation and a few too many fruitless phone calls (mobile signal is not Mulls’ strong point!) we were finally united and it was fantastic to see them. We went out to eat (with Natalie from the office) and after much conversation and some spoon antics I headed back to the campsite Helen and Andrea would be staying at. Seen as it was Mull it was raining which, prepared for the inevitable, Andrea and Helen took to quite cheerfully. The fact that their tent was leaking heavily was not taken with such joy!
The next morning brought two soggy, disgruntled and sleepy individuals into the office by the names of Helen and Andrea. Their tent situation had worsened but they were going to enjoy Mull even if the Island did seem to be trying to drown them! I spent the day in the office whilst they explored.
The next day was the day of THE boat trip. I emphasise this particular boat trip in that it was the one that Helen and Andrea were coming on and it was rather an eventful one at that! One of our 7 hour Whalewatch Explorers was due to depart at 9:30am. This it did with my two intrepid traveller friends aboard. This was after having been told that the people in the office that met Helen described her as “exploding into the room.” This description I found to be rather accurate! And so it was that the bow and stern lines were cast, the fenders taken up and the boat set sail for the Cairns of Coll. Little did we realise that once past the Sound of Mull alongside Ardnamurchan point we would see Common Dolphins! Someone aboard had alerted us and I calmly explained that they were most probably porpoise knowing how rare sightings of were and the common mistake of a porpoise for a dolphin. Dear reader I was wrong! They were indeed dolphins and soon they were bow riding with the boat! All my professionalism went out of the window as I searched desperately for something knowledgeable to say about the species. In the end I gave up trying and just marvelled at the sight. They were stunning. Some views of sharks, sea birds and actual porpoise later we arrived on the Cairns to glorious sunshine and seals aplenty. Popz (our skipper) said I could go on land with Helen and Andrea, which I did and we spent half an hour enjoying the white sands, turquoise seas and goose poo aplenty! At the time some of our passengers were wondering from what animal these faeces had come from and the only suggestion I could come up with was Island hopping Red Deer. Eventually it was discovered that it originated from a member of the goose family but not after samples were collected and examined enthusiastically by me! The inner biologist was smiling with glee!
Many photos later it was time to jump aboard Sula Beag again which was anchored a little way out to sea. We take our passengers along on the rib (or as Popz calls it; “The Rubber Duck”) and I was given some training with using the outboard motor on it. The first challenge of which was to start the contraption! Three attempts later it started and our little collection of passengers applauded!
It turned out to be a wonderful trip (as all our trips are of course!) and Helen told me she felt proud of me. I didn’t feel so proud of myself after several panics with the blasted clove hitch knot and fenders shredded my nerves a little but I did manage to do the bow line correctly and I even drove Greenie after our 2 hour Ecocruz! After which we joined Ewan (another guide) for tea in the MacDonald Arms and chatted excitedly about the events of the day.
The next morning dawned and with it...pony trekking! After a mad panic in which we realised we didn’t have enough cash and cash machines are somewhat scarce on Mull we arrived at Killiechronan Trekking Centre and met our soon-to-be faithful steeds! Helen was given a beautiful arab cross (with not much arab in him) called “Caspian”. Andrea was given a sturdy highland pony named “Oak” and I had his half brother “Smokey” whom, I was assured would look after me, nervous rider as I am. The trek began...
I shall leave you all in suspense to await the next part of the Mull Adventure Blog!
Disclaimer: Leaving my dear readers in suspense is not done out of some vindictive aspect of my character, rather that I need to go to bed as we’ve got an early trip heading out tomorrow for which I will need to be awake!
Hugs to you all!
Sarah
Guide
I do apologise though, I digress, I’m sure you’re wondering where the ADVENTURE part to this adventure blog as disappeared off to. Fear not dear reader, it shall return! We start this blog with the arrival of Helen (the sister) and Andrea (the friend of the sister and myself). After much anticipation and a few too many fruitless phone calls (mobile signal is not Mulls’ strong point!) we were finally united and it was fantastic to see them. We went out to eat (with Natalie from the office) and after much conversation and some spoon antics I headed back to the campsite Helen and Andrea would be staying at. Seen as it was Mull it was raining which, prepared for the inevitable, Andrea and Helen took to quite cheerfully. The fact that their tent was leaking heavily was not taken with such joy!
The next morning brought two soggy, disgruntled and sleepy individuals into the office by the names of Helen and Andrea. Their tent situation had worsened but they were going to enjoy Mull even if the Island did seem to be trying to drown them! I spent the day in the office whilst they explored.
The next day was the day of THE boat trip. I emphasise this particular boat trip in that it was the one that Helen and Andrea were coming on and it was rather an eventful one at that! One of our 7 hour Whalewatch Explorers was due to depart at 9:30am. This it did with my two intrepid traveller friends aboard. This was after having been told that the people in the office that met Helen described her as “exploding into the room.” This description I found to be rather accurate! And so it was that the bow and stern lines were cast, the fenders taken up and the boat set sail for the Cairns of Coll. Little did we realise that once past the Sound of Mull alongside Ardnamurchan point we would see Common Dolphins! Someone aboard had alerted us and I calmly explained that they were most probably porpoise knowing how rare sightings of were and the common mistake of a porpoise for a dolphin. Dear reader I was wrong! They were indeed dolphins and soon they were bow riding with the boat! All my professionalism went out of the window as I searched desperately for something knowledgeable to say about the species. In the end I gave up trying and just marvelled at the sight. They were stunning. Some views of sharks, sea birds and actual porpoise later we arrived on the Cairns to glorious sunshine and seals aplenty. Popz (our skipper) said I could go on land with Helen and Andrea, which I did and we spent half an hour enjoying the white sands, turquoise seas and goose poo aplenty! At the time some of our passengers were wondering from what animal these faeces had come from and the only suggestion I could come up with was Island hopping Red Deer. Eventually it was discovered that it originated from a member of the goose family but not after samples were collected and examined enthusiastically by me! The inner biologist was smiling with glee!
Many photos later it was time to jump aboard Sula Beag again which was anchored a little way out to sea. We take our passengers along on the rib (or as Popz calls it; “The Rubber Duck”) and I was given some training with using the outboard motor on it. The first challenge of which was to start the contraption! Three attempts later it started and our little collection of passengers applauded!
It turned out to be a wonderful trip (as all our trips are of course!) and Helen told me she felt proud of me. I didn’t feel so proud of myself after several panics with the blasted clove hitch knot and fenders shredded my nerves a little but I did manage to do the bow line correctly and I even drove Greenie after our 2 hour Ecocruz! After which we joined Ewan (another guide) for tea in the MacDonald Arms and chatted excitedly about the events of the day.
The next morning dawned and with it...pony trekking! After a mad panic in which we realised we didn’t have enough cash and cash machines are somewhat scarce on Mull we arrived at Killiechronan Trekking Centre and met our soon-to-be faithful steeds! Helen was given a beautiful arab cross (with not much arab in him) called “Caspian”. Andrea was given a sturdy highland pony named “Oak” and I had his half brother “Smokey” whom, I was assured would look after me, nervous rider as I am. The trek began...
I shall leave you all in suspense to await the next part of the Mull Adventure Blog!
Disclaimer: Leaving my dear readers in suspense is not done out of some vindictive aspect of my character, rather that I need to go to bed as we’ve got an early trip heading out tomorrow for which I will need to be awake!
Hugs to you all!
Sarah
Guide
Part 2
Hello once again dear readers from the Isle of Mull where it is once again raining as it often does in this place. But I’ll let you in on a little secret, I love it! Not so much the rain but the Island itself with its mix of pleasant people, abundant wildlife and far flung remoteness from any city I have known or will know in the future.
We left our tale last time after a completed week at work with much more still to learn and experience. After having learned and experienced many things this week I can safely say I still have yet more to learn and experience! But this past week involved completing my first introduction talk to our passengers (which was applauded) on what they might see on the trip. I have also been trying to learn knots and rope handling but am still rather abysmal at both. I can tie a clove hitch (after much practice with a piece of string and fake fender) and have successfully done both the bow and stern lines when coming into the pontoon but I am far from good at either. With practice comes perfection I guess.
In more successful news I was given the task of guiding an Ecocruz by myself on Sula Crion (meaning “Tiny Gannet” in Gaelic) which is our smaller boat, and holds only 10 people. Nerves mounted as families started checking in for the trip and I wondered if I would be able to remember enough to make it an enjoyable excursion, as well as boat matters. The skipper told me not to worry, he would take care of the boat and I would guide, plain and simple. Dear reader it turned out to be a fantastic trip! Apart from a brief shower the sun shone and the wildlife didn’t let us down with logging porpoise and diving gannets. The people themselves were fantastic too. Some of the kids on board were so enthusiastic even after seeing their 7th shag, still pointing and checking they had identified it correctly. When children experience that much joy from watching wildlife I have to say it gives me hope for the future! My own enthusiasm was abundant (even more so than usual) due to this and the talks I managed to give and the information I imparted all seemed to please the boss. I came off that trip, 2 hours later feeling utterly competent as a guide!
This week the office was busy and they’ve finally got me on answering phone calls. Now for those who know me well you may know of my distinct lack of confidence over the phone, even to people I know well, therefore nerves were getting the better of me answering this particular phone. However the staff just told me to go for it and refused to answer it themselves which is the best way I learn at any rate and so I am thankful they did it. The first call I answered got my heart racing and stumbling on the phrase “Hello, Sea Life Surveys, Sarah speaking” only to be asked how I was by the boss! After knowing I would not have to deal with bookings over the phone I relaxed. This has happened on several occasions and so I have yet to make a booking over the phone but I have dealt with other requests which were equally as challenging. However I feel it shall still be some time before I can confidently pick up the phone in that office!
Wildlife wise it has been a week both of disappointment and elation for all the wrong reasons! Intrigued? First of all the “high density of Otters on Mull” I have been promised (it’s lies, all lies!) has failed once again. I have still to see one even after waiting for 3 hours at a gem of a place on the north of the island. It was a glorious day though and the scenery on the drive was spectacular so I can’t complain. I am, however, adamant that every Otter on Mull has gathered together in an epic meeting to form an evil plan that conspires against me! The Minke Whales too have proven elusive but with myself firmly on Team Basking Shark I have not been disappointed on that front. In better wildlife spotting news I did an 8km walk on a random whim from Garmony to Fishnish and back one evening. It was a beautiful walk through forests and beaches and many types of habitat in between and I couldn’t help but love the opportunity I had been given to live on this beautiful Island. Now along the walk dear reader I was looking for many types of wildlife and didn’t see any, however I did spot what I wasn’t looking for. I looked for Otters and got Seals, I looked for Eagles and got a Hen Harrier and whilst looking for animals I was more rewarded by fungi in the form of some fantastic Fly Agaric mushrooms in a patch of pine forest sunlight. The photographer in me could not stop smiling and some snaps were enthusiastically gathered!
Next week will bring news of a family visit and assorted adventures, both at work and at play on this spectacular Island. Stayed tuned and, as always, hugs to you all!
Sarah
Guide
We left our tale last time after a completed week at work with much more still to learn and experience. After having learned and experienced many things this week I can safely say I still have yet more to learn and experience! But this past week involved completing my first introduction talk to our passengers (which was applauded) on what they might see on the trip. I have also been trying to learn knots and rope handling but am still rather abysmal at both. I can tie a clove hitch (after much practice with a piece of string and fake fender) and have successfully done both the bow and stern lines when coming into the pontoon but I am far from good at either. With practice comes perfection I guess.
In more successful news I was given the task of guiding an Ecocruz by myself on Sula Crion (meaning “Tiny Gannet” in Gaelic) which is our smaller boat, and holds only 10 people. Nerves mounted as families started checking in for the trip and I wondered if I would be able to remember enough to make it an enjoyable excursion, as well as boat matters. The skipper told me not to worry, he would take care of the boat and I would guide, plain and simple. Dear reader it turned out to be a fantastic trip! Apart from a brief shower the sun shone and the wildlife didn’t let us down with logging porpoise and diving gannets. The people themselves were fantastic too. Some of the kids on board were so enthusiastic even after seeing their 7th shag, still pointing and checking they had identified it correctly. When children experience that much joy from watching wildlife I have to say it gives me hope for the future! My own enthusiasm was abundant (even more so than usual) due to this and the talks I managed to give and the information I imparted all seemed to please the boss. I came off that trip, 2 hours later feeling utterly competent as a guide!
This week the office was busy and they’ve finally got me on answering phone calls. Now for those who know me well you may know of my distinct lack of confidence over the phone, even to people I know well, therefore nerves were getting the better of me answering this particular phone. However the staff just told me to go for it and refused to answer it themselves which is the best way I learn at any rate and so I am thankful they did it. The first call I answered got my heart racing and stumbling on the phrase “Hello, Sea Life Surveys, Sarah speaking” only to be asked how I was by the boss! After knowing I would not have to deal with bookings over the phone I relaxed. This has happened on several occasions and so I have yet to make a booking over the phone but I have dealt with other requests which were equally as challenging. However I feel it shall still be some time before I can confidently pick up the phone in that office!
Wildlife wise it has been a week both of disappointment and elation for all the wrong reasons! Intrigued? First of all the “high density of Otters on Mull” I have been promised (it’s lies, all lies!) has failed once again. I have still to see one even after waiting for 3 hours at a gem of a place on the north of the island. It was a glorious day though and the scenery on the drive was spectacular so I can’t complain. I am, however, adamant that every Otter on Mull has gathered together in an epic meeting to form an evil plan that conspires against me! The Minke Whales too have proven elusive but with myself firmly on Team Basking Shark I have not been disappointed on that front. In better wildlife spotting news I did an 8km walk on a random whim from Garmony to Fishnish and back one evening. It was a beautiful walk through forests and beaches and many types of habitat in between and I couldn’t help but love the opportunity I had been given to live on this beautiful Island. Now along the walk dear reader I was looking for many types of wildlife and didn’t see any, however I did spot what I wasn’t looking for. I looked for Otters and got Seals, I looked for Eagles and got a Hen Harrier and whilst looking for animals I was more rewarded by fungi in the form of some fantastic Fly Agaric mushrooms in a patch of pine forest sunlight. The photographer in me could not stop smiling and some snaps were enthusiastically gathered!
Next week will bring news of a family visit and assorted adventures, both at work and at play on this spectacular Island. Stayed tuned and, as always, hugs to you all!
Sarah
Guide
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